January 19, 2004-- CELEBRATE LUNAR (CHINESE) NEW YEAR, THEN ROBBIE BURNS' NIGHT, VEGAN-STYLE!
Vegetarian Haggis Recipe for Robbie Burns' Night
CHINESE (LUNAR) NEW YEAR (YEAR OF THE M0NKEY, JANUARY 22):
KUNG HEY FAH CHOY!* (*means “I wish you a prosperous New Year”)
Sources are “Let’s Celebrate” by Caroline Parry (a book explaining many holidays), and “Gung Hay Fat Choy” by June Behrens.
NOTE: The Chinese calendar is actually “lunisolar”, based on the cycles of both the moon and the sun, but that’s sounds a bit complicated, so I’ll just leave it at “lunar”! The holiday starts on the second new moon after the winter solstice, so it can fall anywhere between January 21 and February 20th.
Yahoo! Time to party BIG TIME!
Chinese New Year (actually, it is probably more accurate to say “the Lunar New Year”, because many Asian communities besides the Chinese celebrate it—the Vietnamese, Korean, Laotian, Cambodian, and Tibetan people, particularly) is actually two big celebrations in one—New Year’s Day and everyone’s birthday! According to Chinese tradition, everyone adds one year to their age on New Year’s Day. It is also an important family get-together event, because one must try to see every family member face-to-face! Since Chinese families used to be large, and perhaps spread far apart, the New Year’s festivities would last for a month, in order to see everyone1 Now they generally last for about a week.
On New Year’s Eve (tonight) there is a huge family feast for as many members of the family as possible. Offerings may be made to family ancestors. Doors and windows are sometimes sealed with red good luck papers. At midnight, the oldest person says the first New Year’s Greeting. The children get to stay awake all night, because the Chinese believe that the longer the children stay awake, the longer their parents will live! (Better not let that get around!)
Red is a good luck color, so you will see red everywhere. The table for the feast is set with a red cloth and red candles. And, surprise! IT IS A VEGETARIAN FEAST! No meat is served because harm would have to be caused to obtain meat and this would be bad luck (too bad this doesn’t extend to the rest of the year!). There are often 12 courses served, for the 12 years in the Chinese zodiac, and there should be enough food so that there are leftovers for the next day, when no cooking is supposed to be done.
While the grown-ups enjoy a long meal, the children play games and ask riddles. They usually also receive gifts of “lucky money” (lai see) wrapped in red paper envelopes.
At midnight, firecrackers explode to bring in the New Year and scare away evil spirits (this is the reason for noisemaking festivities at the New Year festivals of almost every culture!). In the morning the good luck seals on the doors and windows are broken.
The belief is that whatever happens on New Year’s day will influence the rest of the year, so everyone is very careful to say and do the right things, to thick good thoughts and speak kind words. Visitors are offered gifts of sweets and fruit. Debts and old quarrels are settled and everyone wears new clothes. The house is cleaned thoroughly and lots of food made ahead. Red and orange scrolls with Chinese characters conveying messages of good health, good, luck, long life, prosperity, and happiness, and flowers and pyramids of fruit decorate the houses. Oranges and apples are the usual fruit, since apples are symbols of good luck and apples and oranges are both round (another lucky symbol) and are red and orange—colors of joy! Kumquats are another round, orange fruit that symbolize “golden luck”
.
In any community with a fair-sized Chinese population, there will be a colorful and noisy parade with a dragon (symbol of strength and goodness) and lion dancers Art exhibits, martial arts exhibitions, traditional dancing and music, and Chinese opera are enjoyed, and, of course, there is lots of food!
Traditionally, the festivities end 14 days later with the Feast of the Full Moon, also known as the Feast of the Lanterns.
Some New Year food customs:
Fresh bean curd or tofu is not included as it is white and unlucky for New Year as the color signifies death and misfortune. Candied lotus seeds symbolize more sons; watermelon seeds more children. These days, gold-wrapped chocolate coins symbolize wealth. Candied lotus root is for endless friendship, and coconut for good relations between fathers and sons. Sweet things are for the sweetness of life; dumplings represent wealth, and romaine lettuce is for prosperity.
In other Asian communities that celebrate at the same time, many customs, such as cleaning the house, visiting, exchanging gifts of food and red envelopes of money, games of chance, fireworks, new clothes, etc.. are the same. Tibetans eat a special nine dumpling soup with fortune-telling tokens in them.
In Vietnamese communities, there is a two-day holiday called Tet. Homes are decorated with peach blossoms, which represent peace and luck. During the two days of celebration no real cooking is done-- snack foods (such as steamed rice cakes) and sweets are eaten. But on the day after the official celebration there is usually a big family meal with traditional foods such as spring rolls.
Try to find a book or website on Chinese horoscopes so that your guests can find their Chinese/Vietnamese signs and predict their luck in the year ahead!
Look for rice papers, rice vermicelli noodles and other Oriental foods in large supermarkets or Asian grocery stores.
HERE ARE SOME MORE SITES WITH INFO ABOUT LUNAR NEW YEAR AND CUSTOMS:
http://www.c-c-c.org/chineseculture/festival/newyear/newyear.html
http://www.epicurious.com/e_eating/e04_chineseny/chinese_newyear.html
http://www.foodtv.com/holidays/chinesenewyearindex/0,5647,,00.html
CHINESE MENU
(unless otherwise indicated, recipes are from my book “Authentic Chinese Cuisine for Contemporary Kitchens”)
Sizzling Rice Soup*
Vegetarian Potstickers (buy frozen)
Jai (Ji) (Buddha’s Delight or Lo Han Vegetable dish)*
Steamed long grain rice
Eight Treasure Steamed Rice Pudding*
NOTE: You may need to visit an Asian grocery store for some of the ingredients here.
BRYANNA’S SIZZLING RICE SOUP Serves 4
Serve this for company! The fried rice crusts sizzle loudly (great for New Year!) and dramatically when you pour the hot soup over them, so do this at the table for maximum effect.
1/2 recipe Rice Crusts
SOUP:
6 c. vegetarian broth
6 oz. Chinese broccoli or other Chinese greens, or Swiss chard, kale or collard greens, washed, trimmed and sliced
2 medium carrots, thinly sliced or julienned
6 dried Chinese black mushrooms, soaked, trimmed and sliced
1/2 c. frozen petit pois (baby peas)
1/2 c. sliced celery
3 T. dry sherry
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. white pepper
1 c. reconstituted soy protein chunks
1/4 c. cornstarch, wheat starch, arrowroot powder, or water chestnut flour
Heat your oil for deep-frying in a wok or heavy frying pan to 375? degrees F.
Meanwhile, heat the soup broth in a large pot over high heat. Add all of the other soup ingredients EXCEPT the textured soy protein chunks.
While this simmers, deep-fry the soy protein chunks, after rolling them in starch or water chestnut flour to coat. When they are golden and crispy, drain them on paper towels on a cookie sheet in a 200 degrees F oven.
Immediately deep-fry the Rice Crusts a few at a time, until puffed and golden brown. Drain them with the soy protein. As soon as they are done, add the soy protein to the soup. Carry the soup to the table, distribute the fried Rice Crusts evenly among four large soup bowls, and ladle the hot soup over the Rice Crusts.
RICE CRUSTS
Rice crusts are crispy, golden fried pieces of dried-out steamed rice that are served in soup, like a dumpling, or as a base for a savory stir-fry, as fried noodles are.
Cook 1 c. short-grain white rice in 1 c. water for 25 minutes. Take off the heat and let it stand 5 minutes. Spread the rice 1/4" thick on an oiled cookie sheet, cut into 2" squares, and bake at 350 F for about 30 minutes, until firm and dry, but don't let it brown.
The rice crusts can be kept (after cooling) in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks.
The rice crusts are deep-fried just before serving in oil at 375?F until they are puffed and golden. Drain on paper towels and use immediately.
BRYANNA’S BUDDHA'S DELIGHT (LO HAN VEGETARIAN DISH OR EIGHT TREASURE VEGETARIAN DISH), OR JAI (JI) Serves 4
This is sometimes the only vegetarian dish on the menu in Chinese restaurants and it can be extremely simple or composed of many ingredients. The "eight treasures" refer to 4 fresh ingredients and 4 dried. This is a traditional family Chinese New year dish, each ingredient having meaning and symbolism.
NOTE: Some sliced bamboo shoots and/or diced celery can also be added, if you like.
8 dried Chinese black mushrooms
1/2 oz. dried "golden needles" (dried tiger lily buds)
1/2 oz. dried tree ear (black) fungus (wood ear)
2 oz. dried bean curd (yuba) sticks
4 oz. fresh mushrooms, sliced
1/2 lb. Napa or Savoy cabbage, sliced
2 c. canned braised Chinese gluten, or homemade baked or fried gluten balls, cut in half
OR seitan or canned Chinese vegetarian “roast duck” (mun chai’ya) or any favorite meat substitute (fresh tofu is not served at New Year’s meals)
2 c. almost any fresh vegetable, such as broccoli, cauliflower, snow peas, green beans, bean sprouts, carrots, etc., cut bite-size if necessary
mushroom soaking liquid plus vegetarian broth to make 2 c.
2 T. oil
1/4 c. light soy sauce
2 T. dry sherry
1 T. vegetarian stir-fry sauce (vegetarian "oyster sauce") (can omit)
1 tsp. sugar
2 T grated fresh ginger
2 T. chopped green onion
1 tsp. roasted sesame oil
Soak the dried mushrooms, golden needles, and tree ear fungus in boiling water to cover in separate bowls while you prepare the other ingredients.
Break the yuba sticks into manageable pieces and soak for 10 minutes in warm water. When they have softened, drain them and cut them into 1" pieces.
Cut and discard the stems off the soaked mushrooms. Slice the mushrooms. Cut the hard tips off the "golden needles" and cut them in half. Chop the tree ear fungus coarsely.
Heat a wok over high heat. When hot, add the oil. When the oil is hot, add gluten and bean curd sticks; fry until starting to change color. Add the soaked dried ingredients, mushrooms and other vegetables (except snow peas, if using). Stir-fry for a few minutes. Add remaining ingredients except snow peas, green onions, and sesame oil. Simmer about 5 minutes. Add snow peas, if using and cook 3 minutes. Sprinkle with the green onions and sesame oil and serve with hot rice.
BRYANNA’S EIGHT TREASURE STEAMED RICE PUDDING (WHEAT FREE) Serves 8
(We didn’t have room for this in my Chinese cookbook, unfortunately—it was a winner during testing!)
This pudding is quite easy to make and absolutely beautiful to look at. The original version contains a hefty portion lard, suet, and/or shortening-- this lighter version contains only a little oil. The "eight treasures" are the dried or candied fruits and/or nuts used to decorate the pudding. The filling is traditionally a sweet red bean paste, but can be replaced by a date paste that is more compatible with Western notions of dessert.
Serve this to end a special feast, such as Chinese New Year.
For Decorating the Bowl:
1 T. COLD solid vegetable shortening (for greasing the bowl)
assorted colorful dried or candied fruits, and perhaps nuts, for decorating: sliced
whole dates, golden raisins, dried apricots, dried prunes candied mango, papaya, pineapple, cherries, etc., almonds, pecan or walnut halves, etc..
(You don't need very many-- 1/2-1 c. total-- because the bowl is not big.)
FILLING:
2/3 c. Chinese sweet red bean paste
OR Date Paste
RICE:
1 c. white glutinous (sticky) rice
1 c. water
2 T. granulated light unbleached or white beet sugar
2 T. oil
SYRUP:
1/2 c. water
1/4 c. granulated light unbleached or white beet sugar
1 tsp. pure almond extract
1 tsp. cornstarch or wheat starch mixed with 1 tsp. cold water
Grease a 3-4 c. bowl that is suitable for steaming (such as Pyrex) with the shortening. (You need plenty of shortening to "glue" the decorations to the bowl, and also to facilitate removing the pudding from the bowl after steaming.) Make an attractive pattern on the bottom, and the sides, too, if you like, with the fruits and nuts, sticking them on to the cold shortening. Place the bowl in the refrigerator while you prepare the pudding.
Bring the water and rice to a boil together in a small covered saucepan. Cover and cook over low heat for 15 minutes. Stir in the oil and sugar.
Line the bottom and partway up the sides of the bowl with 2/3 of the rice mixture. Spread this to within 1/2" of the top of the rice with the bean or date paste. Cover this with the remaining rice, spreading it to the edge of the "lining". Cover the bowl with aluminium foil.
Steam the pudding over boiling water in a covered pan over moderate heat for 1 hour. If you make the pudding ahead, it can be reheated by steaming for 30 minutes. The pudding should be served hot.
To serve, loosen the top edges gently with a knife, place the serving plate over the top of the bowl, flip it over (holding the plate on firmly with two hands), and give the bottom of the bowl a sharp whack if the pudding didn't loosen immediately. The pudding should come out in one piece with a lovely pattern of fruits and nuts on top. If any were left behind, re-attach them to the pudding carefully and smooth the rice if it was disturbed.
Make the syrup by mixing the ingredients in a small saucepan and stirring over high heat until the sugar dissolves and the sauce is slightly thickened. Pour this over the pudding to make a shiny glaze.
DATE PASTE: Cook 1 c. whole pitted dates in a small heavy saucepan with 1 c. water over high heat, stirring constantly, until the dates break down, the water is absorbed, and the mixture resembles a paste. Remove from heat. Makes 2/3 c.
ROBBIE BURNS' NIGHT (JANUARY 25TH):
BRYANNA’S VEGETARIAN POT HAGGIS Serves 12-16
This is the vegetarian version of dish that is traditionally piped in to the celebration dinner on Robbie Burns' Night. Serve with mashed potatoes and turnips (called "tatties 'n' neeps" in Scotland—for a modern touch, oven-roast the turnips instead of boiling them). You are supposed to drink Scotch whiskey with this as well!
This traditional Scottish dish is, unfortunately, made from (cringe!) sheep innards . These days, most Scottish haggis makers also offer vegetarian versions. This is my take on it ( I spiced it up as much as I dared!), made in an authentic way called “pot haggis”, which means that it is formed in a bowl or basin , instead of being packed in a sheep’s stomach (!!!@@??).
This recipe actually makes a good all-around vegetarian “meatloaf” anytime, and the leftovers can be used as vegetarian “crumbles”. The scrubbed potato, oatmeal, optional flaxseed and onions make it a fairly high-fiber protein dish. And, by the way, you can halve the recipe, if you like.
NOTE: This actually makes quite a good rough pâté of sorts, but it would be better with more herbs and garlic, maybe some wine or brandy in place of the water. Try adding 2 tsp. garlic, crushed and 1/2 tsp. rosemary for a start. Grind the protein before baking to make it finer-textured and bake like "meatloaf" (see variation below), with bay leaves on bottom of pan to form a nice design when you turn it out, if you like.
4 c. vegetarian “hamburger crumbles” (such as 2 pckgs. Yves “Ground Round” plain)
OR ground seitan (NOT ginger-flavored) mixed with 1/4 c. hot vegetarian broth in which you have dissolved 1 tsp. Marmite yeast extract or 2 tsp. dark miso
OR use 3 c. dry textured soy protein granules soaked in 2 and 1/2 c. hot water with vegetarian bouillon for 2 c. broth, 4 tsp. Kitchen Bouquet gravy browner, and 1 T. Marmite yeast extract or 2 T. dark miso
1 c. raw oatmeal (rolled oats or pinhead or scotch oats)
8 oz. potato, scrubbed or peeled and grated
2 medium onions, finely minced (a food processor does this best)
1/4 c. soy sauce
1/4 c. ketchup
1/4 c. nutritional yeast flakes
Optional: 1/4 c. ground flaxseed
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. garlic granules
1 tsp. EACH dried thyme and savory
1/2 tsp. freshly-ground black pepper
If you want a fine-textured “haggis”, grind the “crumbles”, seitan, or the reconstituted soy protein in a food processor or a food mill until ground quite fine. If you want it rougher-texture, leave it “as is”. Mix all of the ingredients in a large bowl. Mix well with your hands. Pack into a very well-greased British pudding basin or a stainless steel bowl which will fit into a large pot. Or, simply line a steamer basket with oiled foil and pack the mixture into that, folding the excess foil over the top. Cover the bowl with 2 layers of foil.
NOTE: For a more authentic “look”, you could try packing the mixture into a cheesecloth bag, tied at the top, and then steaming it in the bowl or steamer basket.
Steam over simmering water for 2 hours, or pressure–steam on a rack over a little water at 10 lbs. pressure for 40 minutes. Let pressure drop naturally.
Loosen and invert on a plate.
VARIATION: To make a more seasoned Vegetarian "Meatloaf": Add 2 cloves garlic, crushed; 1/2 tsp. EACH dry basil, oregano and sage.
Press the mixture into a greased 9x5" loaf pan. Cover with a thin layer of ketchup, barbecue sauce, or tomato sauce, if you like. Bake at 400 degrees F for 1 hour, covering for the first 1/2 hour. Let stand 15 minutes; turn out on a plate. This firms up as it cools. Great on sandwiches!